The bf's visit, Part 2: Food

Finally coming back to the promised food post related to the bf's visit!  I'd like to start this food post by stating that I realized in a very odd way that French food was really as good as they say it is. What was this weird way? I moved from the Netherlands to here by train. I had to switch trains around lunchtime, so I grabbed a sandwich at a place I've since learned is your every street corner sandwich place. I took one bite and was astonished. I wasn't thinking about it being my first try of French food and expecting anything or even paying attention--I was just hungry! But the bite of sandwich completely took my by surprise. I knew I was going to eat well this semester.

Since arriving, I had eaten a few amazing meals in various restaurants around town and had realized  that wherever you go, pretty much everything is going to be amazing. French places frequently have a menu of the day, which is a choice of a plat-du-jour (usually several options), and you can  often add an entree (yeah English speakers, we got that one wrong: It's the appetizer, not the main plate) and/or a dessert for not much at all. It's a great way to try several things. I love the menus! Unfortunately, being a busy student and with a few weeks of having no money after the pickpocketing, I had really not eaten out nearly enough. I had eaten at the dining hall entirely too much (really the only lunch option with class timing). And while French dining halls serve things like duck, mussels, snails, and other things you would never see in American dining halls, they still cook them like a dining hall (read: they're gross). So by the time classes ended, I'd had enough. In the month and a half since I've eaten at a dining hall once, which reminded my why I was done with them. So long story short, I'm cooking again.

BUT, when the bf came, we went all out. He was in France and he was going to eat French food! We're not big planners, so our restaurant selection process usually involved deciding we were hungry, heading into town, and wandering and reading menus until something struck us both. It was fun! We went to all different parts of town and ended up at all kinds of places depending on their menu, atmosphere, whatever we were looking for that particular meal.

Well, I guess we did that except for the first dinner. I had told the bf about mussels and fries (moules- frites) places, and he had to eat at one of those, no question, his first night here. I told him it was a Belgian thing, but he was insistent (hehe I didn't actually fight it--it's an awesome meal). You get a kilogram of mussels (yeah that's 2.2 lbs) steamed in whatever sauce/broth you want.  I tend to do moules marinieres, which is your classic white wine garlic sauce, just because it's so amazing! We went to a great little place built into the side of a building and were one of the few tables in there. The proprietor was a fun Belgian guy who gave an enormous spiel and fun recommendations from his Belgian beer list, all while I was translating as fast as I could both his suggestions and the bf's questions. We split an order of the mussels and an order of some scallop dish with a beer-based sauce. I was not a huge fan of the scallop dish, but bf was in love.

But other than that we just wandered around town. I won't bother with place names, but if you're ever going to Montpellier and are scared to just wander freely, let me know and I'll get you names!  The first thing we had was a menu midi (lunch menu) in a square I like. Bf's first meal was a fish tarte (sorta like a fish and cheese pie) and steak-frites. So French!

I think we would probably agree that our best meal came from a place in this beautiful courtyard. The picture isn't great, but it was a cute square with a fountain in the middle and a restaurant on either side.

Bf got an utterly amazing plate of scallops. They were big, beautiful, and cooked perfectly. I had magret de canard (duck breast) with the most amazing sweet apple sauce. Drool, seriously.

We also went to once place where the appetizers were good, the meal was not, and the desserts were amazing.

 To the left is my appetizer--shrimp beignets (doughnuts). Kinda like extra-breaded fried shrimp. Very good. Below is bf's--terrine de something. Don't remember the details. Terrine looks a bit scary, and is some kind of fatty meat loafy thing (not like our meat loaf). It's really rich and delicious though.

I won't bother with pictures of the main dishes. The side vegetables were good, but that was about it. The desserts though. Mmm. First is a picture of my cafe gourmand. A cafe gourmand is a plate with a French coffee (they have tiny coffee) and several small desserts. This one was actual several reasonably normal-sized desserts, but less than the size was the utter amazingness of nearly everything. Top right was the worst thing on there, and was a not bad red fruit compote on some kind of cake. Bottom right was a dark chocolate mousse, bottom center was the coffee, bottom left was an apple tarte with some kind of flan-like base and caramel sauce, top left was a little meringue, and center was a creme brulee. The chocolate mousse and creme brulee were spectacular in true French fashion. The apple tarte really got me though. I am not a big cooked-apple person, so I didn't expect to like the thing. Bf is not a big dessert person at all though, and when I saw his face after he tried it, I knew I had to as well. And...uh...I still can't even describe it other than to tell you that after either of us took a bite, we would not be able to respond to any conversation while we were savoring it. It was amazing. I highly recommend cafe gourmands just because they're very French and fun, but that was my most amazing dessert ever. His dessert, a frozen lemon sorbet, was also great.

 

Oh French food. It's amazing. We also just had a couple meals with sandwiches or pizza bread and a bottle of wine or something like that, and it was still good.

Then Spanish food! We hit Barcelona right during Easter, which was awesome in that there were not many people anywhere, but not great in that a lot of places weren't open. We did manage to get paella though! Yum.

Course Camarguaise!

I've suddenly realized that this semester is done in two months and it's travel crunch time. I don't know if I'll be back here next semester, so just in case I'm not, I have to see everything now! I was trying to figure out where to go last weekend when a friend emailed me a link to a flyer for a Spanish Festival in a beach town near here. It looked like several food stands and a few shops, but there was also a schedule, and on that schedule was Course Camarguaise. I had no idea what that meant, but I soon discovered that it's the version of bullfighting practiced in this region. It's nice and friendly--the bulls have a good life spent mostly at pasture on the marshes, but every once in a while they're herded into town by about 6 cowboys that form a triangle to herd 1-3 bulls at a time (sorry for the blurry picture--they don't move slowly).

The event we went to was actually a training event for new rasteurs (the guys who do the "fighting"), so I'm not sure if this is always how it goes, but that day there were about 10 guys in the ring competing. I do know that the goal is to remove ribbons attached to the bull's head and horns. No red cape, just getting the bull's attention and getting him to run at you so you can get a good grab at the horns before you vault yourself out of the ring to safety. 

 

They brought out five bulls in succession, and each was bigger and more aggressive than the last. It was really interesting to watch! But the bulls are definitely not hurt. I was reading more about the Course Camarguaise and apparently you'll get bulls that are quite famous, and their names will be printed bigger than those of the rasteurs on posters advertising the events! I'm really not sure how I'd handle watching a real bullfight where they kill the bull, and I'll happily take this as my proxy.

Of course after the fight we were hungry and had a nice paella and sangria lunch. It was a Spanish festival after all!

The unnamed plant lives on

Since there are doubters in your ranks (you know who you are) I provide proof my plant lives on.

Look how happy it is! I say "it" because the plant remains unnamed. I'm convinced that is contributing to its non-deadness.

P.S. Yes, there is a food post coming. Later.

The bf's visit, Part 1: Travel

The bf finally came to visit! It's, you know, a little expensive to get to Europe and back, but his friend's awesome mom came through with the Buddy Pass to make it possible for cheap! Thank you thank you thank you friend's mom! Buddy passes let you fly standby, but since spring in Europe is rather popular, we were having trouble finding flights he could be relatively sure of getting on. Then apparently someone said something nasty about Barcelona on the Travel Channel or something because there were a string of completely open flights to Barcelona! So he hopped on a plane with just a few days' notice.  I finished a school project like a mad person and got on a bus to meet him at the airport.  Yes, a 6 hour bus trip and a night in a chuzzle-decorated hostel to be waiting in the arrivals lounge. Awwww. It was awesome.

He was, however, dead when he arrived (even though he got to fly business class!) so we jumped on the bus and headed back to Montpellier, where he promptly fell asleep without trying any more French food than the dried strawberries I had in my bag as bus food. This is the travel post though, so more food talk will be reserved for the next post.

I had to wake up early Wednesday morning for an appointment to get my French residence permit (yup, I'm finally official). He slept till I was done and then we wandered around Montpellier. We did my favorite parks and squares, and then I showed him the center of town/shopping/eating area. I realized that morning that while Montpellier is a nice place to live, it's not a very good tourist town. The few things (that I am aware of I guess!) that you should see, you kinda just see and are then done with. But he enjoyed it anyway. We were both still tired so we had a nap that afternoon, then a relaxed dinner and a few drinks with some classmates and a set of parents who were in town.

Thursday we decided on a small adventure! Nîmes is a town about a 25 minute train ride from me (yeah, no long voyages yet). It was one I hadn't heard much about, but when going through the guidebook bf decided it looked interesting and off we went! First impression was that it was just a really pretty town, with lots of shady tree-lined avenues. We arrived and immediately decided to grab lunch (yeah, we slept late. Hey, it was both of our vacations!), but were being indecisive, so we wandered around town for a while before settling down, and it was very enjoyable! The tree-lined avenues are everywhere, not just near the train station. We wandered by a cathedral or two and then finally sat down. Afterwards, we wandered a bit more until we suddenly came upon the Roman arena! It was the first one I'd seen, and they're really cool! This one looked kinda small, but can hold 24,000 people. While were were there they were setting it up for some mock Roman Games they were having over the weekend.

The arena was pretty open, so we were able to wander all around the top level and check out the views, which were great. While up there, we saw a watchtower on top of a hill and decided to head that way. I then heard in the arena audioguide that it was a Roman tower built on top of an old Celtic tower, which made it sound even cooler.

We meandered our way towards the watchtower (nice to have a companion with a great sense of direction). The city continued to be lovely, but we were both surprised by how nice the Jardin de la Fontaine (Garden of the Fountain) was. You walk through the garden to climb the hill to the tower, but we spent quite a while wandering around the garden, enjoying the big open areas and old Temple of Diana. Once we realized that the whole thing was actually spring-fed, it was even cooler.

Eventually we decided to climb the hill, and it was great! The whole park was really well done. There were hidden grassy areas, little gardens, nice paved paths and little rocky trails up through gardens, all kinds of things. It was quite steep and had us both puffing a bit, but it was totally worth it. The tower was cool, and while trees obstructed a lot of the view, the bits we got were nice!

After seeing those major sites, we just wandered around town a bit more and finally headed back to Montpellier. It was great. Nice, laid back traveling.

Friday we decided to be around Montpellier again and had a lovely picnic in my complex. What? The dorm complex? Why? Well, being in a Mediterranean climate seems to mean that grass is not all that common in "parks" which are often paved or gravel. My favorite park in town (the one by the arch) is mainly gravel with just a few grassy places. And for our picnic, we wanted grass, so we ended up in my complex, which is actually nice and grassy and didn't bother me at all.

That day we were planning our trip that we wanted to do to Lyon the next day, where we would spend Saturday and then head to Barcelona where bf had to leave from Tuesday morning. For some reason the train sites were being cranky, so we had to go to the station to try to book. Turns out almost everything was full! GAH. People must do a lot more Easter traveling than I thought. All we could get would leave us with only about 22 hours in Lyon with a 70% chance of rain all day. We decided to skip Lyon and book the bus to Barcelona for Sunday. We decided to just wait and check the rain when we woke up Saturday morning and go on another day trip if it looked nice.

Good thing we waited! It poured almost all day Saturday. We took it as a sign and were lazy and watched DVDs. Except for the adventure we had just trying to get something to eat.

Sunday morning it was time to finish packing all my winter stuff into bf's suitcase and head to the bus station. Got on the bus to Barcelona for the second time. This one was interesting though, with lots of Spanish temper flaring before we even left Montpellier. My Spanish was nowhere near good enough to follow those lightning-speed exchanges, but several people were angry at various points. After that it was an uneventful bus ride (although even just taking the highway it's very pretty) and we arrived in Barcelona. We had grabbed a hotel near the train station (where the bus arrives and the train to the airport leaves) and got all checked in. Then it was off to find something to eat. This was, of course, Easter Sunday. Oops. Whereas most things had been open in France, almost NOTHING was open in Spain. Luckily we were in just enough of a touristy area there were a few small places open. Then it was back to the hotel, as we'd planned a full Monday of being tourists.

Oh that alarm Monday morning. We were both excited, but it was still not nice to wake up. We quickly decided to snooze for a while and take the metro up to Parc Guell instead of walking the 5 kilometers. SUCH a good call. Barcelona has an amazing natural setting--it's on the beach, but the city goes up into the few serious-ish hills behind it. Parc Guell is on one of those hills. It's up there. It's a park that was going to be a neighborhood, designed by Gaudi, the same crazy architect behind the Sagrada Familia. The project failed commercially, so it's mainly a park, but there are a few completed buildings, some amazing architecture built into the environment, and the main hall type thing with awesome lizard fountain. Can you find me in the last picture? 

Being on a hill, Park Guell also gave amazing views of Barcelona below. Panorama mode on!

The bf and I both loved the park, and I'm pretty sure we walked almost the whole thing. And it's large. But finally we were satisfied and headed downhill towards the Sagrada Familia, stop two on our tour.

The Sagrada Familia is amazing. Whether you like it or not, there is no other way to describe the monster that rises out of Barcelona. It was started in 1882, but Gaudi took over in 1883 and it became another of his crazy creations. It hasn't been worked on continuously since then, but now they're really going. It's supposed to be completed sometime in the 2030s. I told you, it's crazy. This thing is utterly enormous already, and the largest spire (not started) is supposed to dwarf what's already been built. It is so impressive. If you're ever in Barcelona, you absolutely must check it out. And you have to go inside. The inside is so unexpected from the outside--it's intricate and ornate, but in a totally different way.

So we spent another large part of our day in Barcelona being entranced by Gaudi. Even after we left, we detoured to check out some more of his creations (Casa Batllo and the Pedrera) in another part of town on our way towards the sea.

Finally, we ended the Gaudi part of our day and headed to Las Ramblas, which we both found disappointing. It may have had something to do with it being Easter Monday, but after talking to others who have been, it seems like it's usually just a crowded tourist street with pickpockets and people selling postcards and trinkets. The real cool thing to do in that area is get off Las Ramblas immediately! Wander in the Barri Gothic, the quarter around it, and enjoy the cool old feel.  We did that for a while, coming across the few old cathedrals (which just didn't seem so impressive after the Sagrada Familia), and then finally came to the seashore. It was nice! Big harbor with yachts and a nice big beach. We grabbed a beer at one of the beach restaurants and just watched the sea and the people for a while, and it was great. Finally the sun began setting and since the bf had an early flight, we headed home. It was a wonderful day in Barcelona, and if you ever have one day there, I think it's a great itinerary!

And then suddenly bf was on a plane home and I was on a bus back to Montpellier alone. It seemed entirely too short, but it was an amazing trip and writing this has brought back all the fun memories!

Ode to Caffeine

I had an amazing vacation week with the bf! I just got back this afternoon and have to give a presentation tomorrow, so the real update will have to wait, but I just looked in my fridge and was amused to discover that it looked like a Coke Zero ad--a 2 liter, a 20 ounce (actually 50 cl since I'm in Europe) and a can (33 cl).

I should probably just sleep more instead :)

The bf is coming!

I am so excited. I'm heading to Barcelona later today to meet him at the airport and then it's vacation time! I'll be back in a week.

In other news, I have had a plant for more than two weeks and it's not dead yet. Maybe because I didn't name this one? Maybe because it's one of those nearly indestructible desk plants? I don't know, but it's working.

A weekend in La Rochelle

La Rochelle is gorgeous! I spent this past weekend there visiting a friend and meeting her awesome husband and seven and four year old sons. It is right in the middle of France's Atlantic coast (a 7 hour train ride from Montpellier). The city has a southwestern orientation and is well protected by a barrier island, so the ocean is calm, which makes it perfect for going out in the boat! I had no idea there was going to be a boat, and I was ecstatic.

 I arrived Friday afternoon and my friend showed me around the cute old town with a great waterfront area full of bars and restaurants looking out on the harbor right in town, which is guarded by cool old castley-looking two towers. Then we went out and had a picnic on the boat and watched the sunset. Ahhhhh. Oh, and I discovered I like pâté . Haha yes, pâté sandwiches. I am so fake-French :)

Saturday morning we headed out to the barrier island, Île de Ré, apparently a popular vacation/tourist spot. My companions were worried because the island is a favorite of the dreaded Parisians, whose school vacations had just started. We somehow got lucky though, and the island was not crowded at all! We had a nice day. Hot! 90F/30C in early April... But yes, a picnic on the beach, a walk around La Flotte, the main town on the island which is very cute with its white houses and the required blue, green, or grey shutters, some ice cream, a beer in the center, and a boat ride back to the mainland. There's a bridge, but we wouldn't all fit in the car (my friend's sister and four year old came along for the day) so some of us took the boat. On the way, my friend's husband, an avid diver, decided it was time to have the first dive of the year. In 59F/15C water. He had a wetsuit, but that's still cold. And oh wait, what's that? He brought along a wetsuit for me? Sneaky. Never one to disappoint, I took the challenge and also went for a swim. And yes, it was cold. But it was fun. So nice to be in, by, and on the water again!

Saturday night was also great. My friend got a babysitter and we went into town, got a table at a famous restaurant, and stuffed ourselves on amazing local seafood including 3-4 varieties of snail that required all kinds of eating strategy, including such tools as a fork and a pin. I was warned that one type has no taste and so has to be covered in mayonnaise to be eaten. I don't think even French people get why they eat snails...After dinner it was time for a few drinks and then home. On Sunday, I unfortunately had to leave at noon to make my epic train journey home, but after the seafood extravaganza the night before, none of us were moving too fast or early. I enjoyed watching French cartoons with the kids before the parents got up!

So I don't know if this was just something I had missed, but La Rochelle is famous, and deservedly so. If you get a chance, check it out!